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Pressure Canning Starter Wort


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#1 3rd party JKor

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Posted 11 May 2009 - 08:46 PM

In an attempt to bring more to the board than (hilarious) off-color jokes, here is a description of my first experience with pressure canning starter wort...Obviously, we're all looking to make our brewing process easier and more streamlined. For me the next step in that progression is pre-prepping my starter wort. In my case I used some light DME because I was in a hurry and didn't have time to do a mash. In the future I'll likely do a dedicated mash, or split a batch. The DME to make 5 quart and 5 pint jars was about $7. The grain to make the same amount of starter is in the range of $1. So, while DME is easy in a pinch and virtually necessary if you're not canning, it's a much more expensive option. The total cost savings in the long run probably isn't huge, but if you're doing multiple step ups or using large starter volumes it could be a dollar or two per batch. Anyway, here we go...What you'll need:Pressure canner/cooker (I have the Presto 23qt pressure canner)Mason Jars made for canning (I used Ball brand qts and pts, they also make a 1/2 gallon size)Lids and rings for the jarsDME/wortyeast nutrientscalecanning funnel (optional, though extremely useful)Glad press'n'seal wrap (optional)various kitchen type stuffMaking the wortI read up on a few sites and this is what I ended up doing....Using a ratio of 1g of DME for each 10mL of starter to be made, add your DME to each jar. You may be wondering how many mL are in a quart jar...well, so was I. The Ball jars have marking for ounces and mL on the sides of the jar, but they don't go all the way to the top. :rolf: So, after deciding I wanted to fill my jars up to the ridge below the lid, I measured the amount each jar would hold. Filling up to the ridge, the quart jars hold 875mL and the pint jars hold 425mL. That told me I would need 87.5 grams (3.1 oz.) and 42.5 grams (1.5 oz) for the quart and pint jars, respectively.I measured out the proper amount for each jar on my kitchen scale and added the DME to the jars. Afterwards, I added a pinch of yeast nutrient to each jar. Adding DME to the jars can get a bit messy, especially if it's humid. A canning funnel, which fits nicely inside the mouth of the jars, was very handy for keeping the mess down. Next, I added hot tap water up to the ridge of the first jar, put the lid and ring on and shook it up to dissolve the DME, then repeated for the remaining jars. You'll probably notice that you lose some volume after you dissolve the DME. After the foam in each jar settled down (a few minutes) I opened the jars back up and refilled them to the ridge. At this time I also wiped the inside of the lid and the lip of the jar to keep the wort off the sealing surface (I'm not sure this is necessary, but I wanted to be thorough), then sealed them back up. When I sealed them back up for the second time I tightened the rings just to snug, not tight at all. My feeling (I could be wrong, this is my first time you know!) is that you want some gas to escape from underneath the lid so you'll end up with a good vacuum seal (and less/no air). If you crank the lid down, that won't happen. Anywho...now they're ready for the canner. From here on out you should follow the operating instructions that came with your canner, but here's how I did it...CanningMy canner has a little mark on the inside letting you know how much water to put in, if you have a different canner follow the instructions for that canner. I added the water to the line and also, as recommended in the canner manual, added two teaspoons of white vinegar to prevent water marks on the jars. Next, I added my jars. 5 quarts and 3 pints fit on the first level and I stacked the remaining 2 pints on top of the 3 pints on the first level (don't stack directly on top of eachother, stagger the jars on the second level). I put the canner, without the lid, on the stove and cranked up the heat. Now wait for the boil. It takes a little bit. It probably took at least 20 minutes on my stove. Once it's at a boil, add your lid without the presssure regulator, and allow steam to flow freely for ten minutes. This will purge any air from the canner. Now, add the pressure regulator. Pressure will slowly begin to build and after several minutes it will reach 15 psi (with most pressure canners) and the regulator will rock back and forth continuously releasing steam to maintain 15psi. You don't want to blow off too much steam, so back your burner down until you can just maintain 15 psi without the regulator releasing too much steam. I had my electric range on medium and the regulator was still pissing out a bunch of steam, so it doesn't take much to keep the pressure up.When you hit 15 psi, you're at the sterilization temp (~250F). Start your timer and hold it here for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, kill your burner and carefully remove the canner from the heat (careful, it's heavy and HOT). Don't try to quick cool the pot by putting it in cold water, you'll likely cause sealing issues. Just let it sit somewhere out of the way until the pressure drops back down to atmospheric. I set mine one a heavy duty cooling rack to help promote slightly quicker cooling. The Presto canner has a pressure indicator to tell you when it reaches that point. If you have a different canner, follow the instructions for your model to know when all the excess pressure has dissipated. After the pressure is dissipated, remove the lid. You may either remove the jars now or let them cool further in the pot. I chose to leave them in the pot. After a few minutes I started hearing loud *POPS*, which turned out to be the sound of the vacuum buttons on the lids sucking in as the jars cooled (a good sign!).FinishingAfter all the lids sucked in, I pulled the jars from the canner (wearing a heat resistant glove!) and placed them on a towel on the counter. I let them sit overnight to completely cool and develop a good pressure differential in the vacuum seal. In the morning, I began removing the rings and gently trying to lift the lids to make sure they had a good vacuum seal. For whatever reason the rings on the pints jars came off easy, while the quarts were more sticky. I believe that a little bit of wort worked it's way out from underneath the lids of the quart jars and were gumming up the lid rings (a normal occurrence, from my understanding). After all, the wort is boiling in the jars. I simply ran the rings under some hot water for 2-3 seconds and they came right off. I also wiped around the lids of all the jars with a damp cloth to remove any residual wort around the lid. The last thing you want is to have food for little buggies around your lid. Finally, I wiped the jars dry and wrapped around the lids with Glad Press'N'Seal wrap. I'm storing the jars in the basement, so I added the wrap to keep anything unwated from on/around the lids. I'll also wipe around the lids with some star-san before I open them up to use, just in case.Once the jars were all sealed up and ready to go, I did notice that quite a bit of break material had stuck to the sides of the jars. I just took each on and gently shook it to knock the break off the side and let it settle. After sitting for a few weeks it should probably be pretty easy to decantthe wort without transferring much break into the starter. I think I pretty much covered it all. Overall, it was a fairly easy and uneventful process. Feel free to pepper me with questions and criticisms...

Edited by JKoravos, 11 May 2009 - 08:49 PM.


#2 kbhale

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Posted 11 May 2009 - 09:20 PM

Good write up. Like the idea of putting wrap over the jars. When I go to add the wort to the flask I filter it through a fine mesh screen, keeps most of break out. When ready to put the starter together I soak everything in a 5 gallon bucket of Star-san. The jar of wort, flask, flask cover, funnel,opener and screen for a couple of minutes.

#3 3rd party JKor

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Posted 12 May 2009 - 04:29 AM

Yeah, I'm still contemplating how I want to deal with the break. The easy way is obviously to just pour off of it. I've also been thinking about putting together a setup using a coffee filter to strain out the particulate. I have a some pretty fine mesh screen I could grab from work, but I'm not sure it's fine enough. How fine is your mesh screen?I just did a quick google search and found that a coffee filter has a 20 micron filter rating, FWIW.

Edited by JKoravos, 12 May 2009 - 04:35 AM.


#4 ChefLamont

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Posted 12 May 2009 - 04:29 AM

Very nice write-up. The first time I did it I got a bit pot and boiled the DME and water then put it in the canning jars. How stupid and so much extra work. This reminds me I need to fire up the canner.

#5 3rd party JKor

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Posted 12 May 2009 - 04:40 AM

Very nice write-up. The first time I did it I got a bit pot and boiled the DME and water then put it in the canning jars. How stupid and so much extra work. This reminds me I need to fire up the canner.

That's exactly what I was planning to do until a read a tutorial (Maltose Falcons, I think?) describing the method above. My thinking was that it would be tough to dissolve the DME in hot tap water. In retrospect, I don't know what made me think that.

#6 HVB

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Posted 12 May 2009 - 05:13 AM

This is sweet. I was just reading on freezing yeast on another site and if I start to can wort for starters it will really increase my brewing. I think that is good, my wife may not agree with that.Thanks for writing this up.

#7 3rd party JKor

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Posted 12 May 2009 - 07:56 AM

I like the idea of not having to plan ahead to do starters. Just pop the top and go.Usually I don't have any DME around, so I have to plan on a trip to the LHBS, and my LHBS keeps weird hours, so I'm pretty much limited to Thursday night. Then theres the time get the starter going, boil it up, cool it, yada, yada. It's not a lot of time but I'm usually doing it on a weeknight when I don't have much time available in the first place.

#8 3rd party JKor

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Posted 12 May 2009 - 06:52 PM

Just some pics...Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted Image

#9 kbhale

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Posted 12 May 2009 - 10:56 PM

Yeah, I'm still contemplating how I want to deal with the break. The easy way is obviously to just pour off of it. I've also been thinking about putting together a setup using a coffee filter to strain out the particulate. I have a some pretty fine mesh screen I could grab from work, but I'm not sure it's fine enough. How fine is your mesh screen?I just did a quick google search and found that a coffee filter has a 20 micron filter rating, FWIW.

Mine is like the top picture https://www.caselots...m/strainers.htm the handle is long enough I can use it to skim break off a hot pot of brew, also use it for cooking. The mesh size keeps most of the break out but not all. The break will not hurt the starter that I know of. I just keep it out to make it easier to tell how the yeast is growing. Not sure of the mesh size but it is small enough flour barely goes through it.

#10 Stout_fan

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Posted 13 May 2009 - 05:02 AM

JK,So when it's time to make the starters, do you just:
    [*]Sanitize the erlynmyer flask.[*]Sanitize stir bar.[*]Dump in yeast.[*]Dump in wort.[*]Sanitize airlock.[*]Place on stirplate?[/list]

#11 3rd party JKor

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Posted 13 May 2009 - 05:39 AM

Mine is like the top picture https://www.caselots...m/strainers.htm the handle is long enough I can use it to skim break off a hot pot of brew, also use it for cooking. The mesh size keeps most of the break out but not all. The break will not hurt the starter that I know of. I just keep it out to make it easier to tell how the yeast is growing. Not sure of the mesh size but it is small enough flour barely goes through it.

Yeah, I'm not terribly worried about transferring the break over. Up until now, when I've made my starters I didn't even attempt to separate the break. I'd just cool it down and dump everything in. Now that I'm changing my process, I'm thinking ways to improve it.

JK,So when it's time to make the starters, do you just:

    [*]Sanitize the erlynmyer flask.[*]Sanitize stir bar.[*]Dump in yeast.[*]Dump in wort.[*]Sanitize airlock.[*]Place on stirplate?[/list]

That's about it, minus the airlock, plus a funnel. I just use a piece of foil over the top of the flask. I'll probably need to sanitize a funnel as well. I could pour straight from the mason jar to the flask, but I'm pretty sure I'd make a mess 9 out of 10 times doing that.

Edited by JKoravos, 13 May 2009 - 05:58 AM.


#12 Brewmasters Warehouse

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Posted 13 May 2009 - 06:31 AM

Nice write up on how to make canned wort. You have me thinking I need to get a pressure cooker.

#13 pods8

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Posted 13 May 2009 - 07:44 AM

When you start making starters and just have to pop that jar open and pour into just a couple items you had to sanitize you'll be wondering why you ever made a starter a different way. :)

#14 boo boo

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Posted 13 May 2009 - 03:41 PM

Nice write up, but to me it defeats the cheap ass brewing I have come to love. Cheap in that I can get awaywith the same product cheaper. Using DME to can wort? I can see canning leftover wort or doing a small mashto get wort, but ain't DME awefull expensive?I mean, it is already in a form that makes making a starter very easy and unless you are strapped for time to make one,then doing a starter the same night only takes a little while if using DME.I know it is convenient to have everything ready at a moments notice, and if you choose to have convinence over costthen, I will never sway you.All I'm saying is that you can have the same convenience at a fraction of the cost. I like quality, convinence, and am a cheap bastard to boot :covreyes:

#15 pods8

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Posted 13 May 2009 - 04:08 PM

All I'm saying is that you can have the same convenience at a fraction of the cost. I like quality, convinence, and am a cheap bastard to boot :covreyes:

He said above the just used DME cause he had some but plans to use a mash in the future. He was probably just antsy to try out canning.

#16 3rd party JKor

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Posted 13 May 2009 - 05:32 PM

He was probably just antsy to try out canning.

yeah, you could say that. :sarcasm:DME is expensive, but how am I going to start my next batch without a starter! :covreyes:

Nice write up, but to me it defeats the cheap ass brewing I have come to love. Cheap in that I can get awaywith the same product cheaper. Using DME to can wort? I can see canning leftover wort or doing a small mashto get wort, but ain't DME awefull expensive?I mean, it is already in a form that makes making a starter very easy and unless you are strapped for time to make one,then doing a starter the same night only takes a little while if using DME.I know it is convenient to have everything ready at a moments notice, and if you choose to have convinence over costthen, I will never sway you.All I'm saying is that you can have the same convenience at a fraction of the cost. I like quality, convinence, and am a cheap bastard to boot :cheers:

Well, up until this point I always used DME to make one off starters. There's no way I'm going to do a mash for one starter. So, in a way I just used the same materials as usual, but increased my convenience using the final product. Next time around I'll do a mash.I choose convenience over cost for many things.

#17 Stout_fan

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Posted 14 May 2009 - 05:55 AM

Well, now I'm sure what to do with those 1.030 second runnings!I could have easily pulled 2 gallons from my Australian Pale Ale tun.hmmm... the more I think about this.I do 13.5 gal batches, and use 4l starters.Normally that's a pound of DME or 1/3 of a $12 three pound bag.So ...
    [*]canning method[*]pull 2 gal of wort from tun=no problem[*]boil till 1.040= use 7gal Al brewpot for this[*]pour into 8 mason jars[*]place in pressure cooker[*]put lids on[*]boil a gallon of water to cover bottom of cooker[*]lug inside to stove[*]cook for 15 minutes while putting gear away[*]kill heat[*]sit around and wait (got that part nailed)[*]crack open cooker[*]let whole mess come to room temp[*]store mason jars, enough for two brews[*] Sanitize the erlynmyer flask.[*]Sanitize stir bar.[*] Dump in yeast.[*] Dump in mason jars[*] Sanitize airlock.[*] Place on stirplate[/list]vs.
      [*]current method[*]tare scale[*]add 16 oz DME[*]fill to 4l mark[*]throw in stirbar, gently[*]add yeast nutrient[*]get to boil[*]boil for 15 min[*]pull from heat to cool[*]water bath for 30 minutes[*]dump in yeast[*] Sanitize airlock.[*] Place on stirplate[/list]Still thinking about this :covreyes:

#18 3rd party JKor

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Posted 14 May 2009 - 06:58 AM

If you're still getting 1.030 runnings after you hit your volume, that would be ideal for boiling down and canning. That's pretty much like free starters. On a typical batch I'm getting near 1.010 by the end of the sparge.

Edited by JKoravos, 14 May 2009 - 06:59 AM.


#19 Stout_fan

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Posted 14 May 2009 - 10:35 AM

If you're still getting 1.030 runnings after you hit your volume, that would be ideal for boiling down and canning. That's pretty much like free starters. On a typical batch I'm getting near 1.010 by the end of the sparge.

I'm guessing:Your "typical" batch 1.050 - 1.055 OGMy "typical" batch 1.075 - 1.080 OGUnless you know some secret sparge handshake...In which case I want to know how you do that. :covreyes:

#20 3rd party JKor

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Posted 14 May 2009 - 10:39 AM

I don't think I have a "typical" batch. But I'd say I'm usually in the 1.050-1.070 range. My sparge isn't anything special. It's just a slow fly sparge.


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