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Electric Brew Rig Pics


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#1 VolFan

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Posted 25 March 2009 - 05:08 PM

This was probably my best contribution to the other board, so I will re-post it here. From June '08.Well it's finally finished. Brewed on it yesterday and was quite pleased. Have to get my process nailed down but I can say for sure that Im going to like the switch to electric. Noise pollution is zero and I can heat strike water in ~30 minutes compared to an hour before. It has a 5500W element in each kettle and I can run them both at the same time. I strike in with water from my BK and can start the HERMS re-circ immediately as it as at temp.If I tried to mention everyone's name for ideas then I would surely miss someone. If you see something that was your original idea then take solace in the fact it has been copied. I can not stress enough the appreciation I have for people posting pics of their system and sharing their ideas.Rig in action yesterday evening. I got the disconnects and silicone tubing that George uses and although pricey, well worth the money.Posted ImageHere is the control panel. The "auto" on the switch is for the sparge where a float controls the pump and "hand" is manual control of pump. The top LED line on the left controller doesn't work, so a 77 looks like a 11. I contacted the guy who sells the Auberins PID's and he said he would replace it when he returned from vacation. They are past their 30 day warranty but he said he would take care of it. I thought this was a nice gesture.Posted ImageInside of disconnect box with SSR's.Posted ImageInside of panel. I will say it got busy real quick. If you opt to do something similar and decide on a panel, go ahead and make it a little bigger than what you are planning. You will see the din rail mounted 24VDC supply and relay for the auto pump cycle. Bottom left is power block where everything 120V is fed from and ground bar above that.Posted ImageHere is the sparge manifold with float. I think I got this idea from Monster Mash. I had to lower the float yesterday for it was above the manifold. When the pump shut off it would suck water back down towards the pump and make it cycle every 20 seconds. Works well now that it is below the manifold.Posted ImageShot of the HERMS. I figured it was about 1/2 the price of soft copper tubing, so I decided to make it out of 1/2" hard pipe instead. It's about 15' total length. With 26 lbs of grain I went from 153 to 170 yesterday in about 15 minutes.Posted ImageShot of mixer....believe I got this idea from Stangbat's thread.Posted ImageSide shot of rig. If you notice my welding buddy came up with the idea of mounting the control panel on slides. I believe we went with 16" so I can pull it out when brewing and slide it back under the top shelf when done. Makes it tuck away nicely. A friend in the club welded SS couplings on the kegs for me which was sweet.Posted ImageIf you look at left corner of pic you can see where the gang box is for the element. I purchased some of that Harris Silver Solder #8 and that stuff rocks! Of course that idea came from here also and some pics are posted on Wortomatic.com under Carl's Electric HLT link.Once again I would like to thank everyone who has posted pics of their set ups. I probably have 50 links and a hundred pics saved on my computer for thoughts/ideas. I will try to answer any questions someone might have.Sorry the pics aren't the greatest....I accidentally took them as 2M size so I re-sized them in MS Paint.

#2 djinkc

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Posted 25 March 2009 - 05:13 PM

Nice! Whenever I decide to upgrade I'll steal a lot of your ideas. Unfortunately, I nuked my photobucket acct, and all the pics....... A lot of mine is old school, but, well, I'm getting old........

#3 VolFan

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Posted 25 March 2009 - 05:21 PM

Hey I stole a lot from you, Stangbat and George. I doubt I could have built it without everyone sharing their ideas. Feel free to steal away DJ.

#4 *_Guest_Blktre_*

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Posted 25 March 2009 - 05:40 PM

Nice. All those wires scare me. Think im stuck in the cave man days. But not as cave man as Dj tho!

#5 HarvInSTL

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Posted 26 March 2009 - 07:15 AM

Nice work! I'm about 75% done acquiring all the parts needed for mine. And about 25% done with the construction. I've used a lot of the information from you, dan, andy and eric.Without those posts, emails and messages I'd be way, way behind!Thanks!

#6 BFB

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Posted 26 March 2009 - 09:45 AM

That is sick....and by sick I mean totally sweet.The wire still scare me...I'll stick with fire for now. At least I an see fire when it's working.

#7 buzhazzard

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Posted 26 March 2009 - 12:02 PM

Nice work with the hard pipe in the HLT. I may have to go that route instead of dropping the extra coin on flexible tubing.

#8 ncbeerbrewer

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Posted 26 March 2009 - 06:39 PM

Nice brew rig for sure. I have been doing this all grain brewing for just over a year now and I am more of just the basics kinda guy. 10 Gallon Rubbermaid Cooler, False bottom and a 15 gallon boil pot. You got a good set up. I love seeing these pics, its almost as sweet as seeing the kegerator posts. Brew on.

#9 Kunsan90

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Posted 26 March 2009 - 06:46 PM

Nice looking temp controllers, I've been considering getting a couple. Were they easy to wire and setup up?

#10 djinkc

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Posted 26 March 2009 - 06:56 PM

Nice. All those wires scare me. .............

Understood Nancy.And how big is that propane tank again? :) j/k palYou have a great setup with the walkout basement and a deck overhead to block the rain. I really like electric but some days I feel stupid brewing inside. And some days I feel stupid anyway........

#11 VolFan

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Posted 27 March 2009 - 02:19 PM

Nice looking temp controllers, I've been considering getting a couple. Were they easy to wire and setup up?

Yes they are. 120V in, thermocouple and output wiring to SSR. I got them here. A few different varieties so be sure to get the one that fits your application.

#12 HarvInSTL

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Posted 28 March 2009 - 07:25 AM

Have any closer/detailed pictures of how the elements are connected to your kegs and/or how the cable connects to them?

#13 VolFan

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 05:52 PM

Have any closer/detailed pictures of how the elements are connected to your kegs and/or how the cable connects to them?

I silver soldered my gang boxes to the kegs. Not too bad to do but I've had one gang box break lose. Im going to get a small bracket welded above and below the gang box and attach it to the brackets via bolts. I'll try and get some pics but the way I done it isn't exactly the best way. I have a male plug and a female receptacle. I never power up the rig until they are plugged in but there is the possibility if Im not careful to have a live male plug. Im very cautious with it but will probably change it over to a male receptacle after I get the brackets welded. My male plug is a twist lock and the twisting/locking it into place is how I broke one of the gang boxes off the keg.

#14 djinkc

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 06:00 PM

........I have a male plug and a female receptacle. I never power up the rig until they are plugged in but there is the possibility if Im not careful to have a live male plug. Im very cautious with it but will probably change it over to a male receptacle after I get the brackets welded............

Pal, please don't brew with that again until you switch it. I have to switch stuff around during the brewday because I don't have a fancy box like you guys do. Works OK for me and I'm careful when switching things around. But a male plug with potential......... :) We, want you to hang around for a long time..... Just saying........Dan

#15 VolFan

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 06:11 PM

Thanks for the concern but it stays plugged in the whole time I have it powered on. I don't turn the main on till they are locked in and I don't unplug them until the main is turned off.I'm going to change it, but it can be done safely.

#16 Kremer

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Posted 31 March 2009 - 07:09 AM

yes, definitely get the flanged inlets to put on your kegs, then put the female cord end on the supply cord.

#17 cracklefish

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Posted 31 March 2009 - 07:20 AM

WOW! That is a seriously impressive rig VolFan. Very Nice.

#18 Michael

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Posted 01 April 2009 - 07:15 AM

I don't quite get why the mixer is on the HLT. Insights?

#19 HVB

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Posted 01 April 2009 - 09:22 AM

I don't quite get why the mixer is on the HLT. Insights?

The mixer is there to prevent stratification. Seeing there is not a boil in there something has to agitate the water to make sure it is a uniform temperature though the pot.Mike

#20 Michael

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Posted 01 April 2009 - 03:10 PM

Oh that makes sense. Another question because I am thinking of converting. Is 120V enough or do I need to have 240V?


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